The Cyclades is the most well-known of the Greek islands, located southeast of mainland Greece in the Aegean Sea. The islands host some of Greece’s most important archaeological sites and are known for their idyllic beaches, ancient ruins, rugged landscapes, and of course the iconic, picture-perfect, whitewashed stucco buildings juxtaposed against the shimmering cerulean sea. Cyclades island hopping with Yacht Getaways is the most exciting way to experience several of the islands in one trip.
And Kary and I did just that! After a couple of weeks exploring the mainland and Crete by car, we could not wait to board the Iris, our 45-foot catamaran, and begin our Yacht Getaways tour of Paros, Anti Paros, Ios, Schouinoussa, Koufonisia, and Naxos. Oh, what an adventure lay ahead!
Onboard the Iris with Yacht Getaways!
Visited by millions of tourists each year, Santorini and Mykonos are undoubtedly the superstar islands of the Cyclades, but they are outrageously crowded in the summer. If you prefer to avoid the hordes yet still explore some gorgeous islands, Paros, Ios, Naxos, and others will not disappoint.
Come along with us on this part of our Big Fat Greek Adventure!
The Cyclades at a Glance
According to Greek mythology, Poseidon, God of the Sea, was so furious at the behavior of the Cyclades nymphs that he turned them into islands. However they were formed, the Cyclades — which means the Sacred islands around Delos — are scenic, romantic, and packed with outdoor adventure.
- Area: 993 mi²
- Population: 126,786
- Number: 30 islands
- Capital: Ermoupoli
- Postal codes: 84
- Area codes: 228
The Weather
The Cyclades Islands have a Mediterranean climate, with mild, moderately rainy winters and warm, sunny summers. The average temperature on the Cyclades ranges from around 52°F in winter to around 77° F in summer.
The Ship
Photo credit: Julia Adams
According to Skipper Mark, “The Iris, a Lagoon L450 catamaran, has four cabins, each with ensuite bathrooms and very comfortable queen-size beds. Swim platforms are located at the back and extra seating at the front. They are designed around trying to make as much space as possible. That’s why they have the boxy windows at the front – if you had curved windows you’d lose that space. The flip side is that they are not the fastest sailing catamaran, but every vessel comes with a compromise, and what they’ve tried to do is emphasize comfort and volume of space rather than just straight sailing performance. But with that said, these vessels do okay, you just need the breeze to be in the right direction.”
Editor’s Note: We hit a bit of windy weather that made the sea very choppy. The crew suggested that I go to the top open-air deck and sit on the padded cushion under the shade with the wind blowing in my face so that I would not get seasick. It worked like a charm! In fact, sitting up there was a blast and was my favorite sailing experience of the week.
The Crew
Skipper: Mark Saunders
“I’d always been in the yacht racing scene in New Zealand. The plan was to go sailing around the world in my own 46-foot cat that I used to own, but that blew up due to some bad real estate investments. But I still wanted to go sailing, so I managed to get a commercial license and go sailing for a living rather than go sailing for pleasure on my own boat.
I’ve sailed catamarans of many different sizes, so it’s pretty easy for me to jump on one and wander around, and within a few minutes I can sail the boat. The more challenging part is to understand the wiring, electrical, where the valves are, and the nitty-gritty that you can’t see but actually need to know to be able to run the boat.
A lot of the Lagoon models are pretty simple, but when you get on the bigger boats, it can take a few weeks to get your head around how to keep them running, not from a sailing perspective but from an engineering perspective.
I got connected with Yacht Getaways through a mutual friend. They said “How quickly can we get you to Greece?” and I was on a plane within 48 hours.”
When asked if he planned to continue sailing, Mark said, “If I wake up with a smile, I’ll keep doing it, if I don’t, I won’t.”
As for the rest of the crew, I can’t even articulate how adorable this young blonde below couple was! Just 25 and 21, they exhibited a level of expertise, maturity, and social skills that is seldom seen in people their age!
1st Mate: Jake Lunn
“I was brought up sailing. I grew up on an estuary that was full of boats, including our family and friends who owned boats. So I was confident on boats from an early age. Two years ago I was lucky enough to buy my first boat myself – a 33-foot classic wooden hull yacht, made in 1975 in New Zealand.
This summer Lucy and I spent three months sailing the complete way around the UK, which was a good challenge. The pros were the wildlife, the scenery, and the freedom to go wherever we wanted to go (depending on the wind, of course). The cons were that we didn’t have a shower on board, it was an older boat, and it was tight living – nothing like this boat at all, with basic necessities but no luxury.
We have a friend that we work with in France in the winter who told us that Yacht Getaways was looking for skippers, so Lucy and I applied. They told us there are a lot of differences sailing in the UK than Greece with these types of boats so they paired us up with Mark and we’re learning as much as we can. One difference is in the UK you have a berth where you can tie fore and aft, but here in the islands you drop an anchor and reverse yourself in and squeeze in where you can.
Sailing is an amazing lifestyle. You have the freedom to go to beautiful places. People often come to the seaside and love it as a holiday, but to actually be doing it as part of a lifestyle is fantastic.”
Host: Lucy Gill
“My dad was really into all the sailing stuff and had a small yacht. When I was little I had sailing lessons and I started in the tiny dingy boats going around in the river near where we lived. I really got hooked on it when Jake and I went around the UK which was an amazing trip, especially the Isle of Skye. Crossing the Irish Sea was a bit scary, though, due to the weather and wind.
We have a friend who does something similar and we thought his job looked like amazing fun, so when we heard about an opening with Yacht Getaways, we applied…during the last month of our sailing around the UK.
Working with Mark has been great because he is such an experienced skipper; we’re both starting out and are soaking up as much information as we possibly can. And doing it in such an amazing place brings out another tier in life that is just an incredible opportunity.”
The Food
We were served a full breakfast and a delicious lunch with unlimited wine each day at the outdoor dining area onboard the Iris. Lucy did most of the cooking with Jake pitching in. I have very strict dietary requirements and Lucy did an amazing job accommodating my needs while not restricting the foodie enjoyment of the other guests. Can I just emphasize again…she’s a mere 21. I could not boil water at 21! Her pork souvlaki was better than any other that I’d had in my three weeks in Greece.
But I have to say, my favorite dish was one breakfast that Jake put together – a concoction of eggs, chorizo sausage, sundried tomatoes, roasted red peppers, and feta. I usually do intermittent fasting and skip breakfast, but this masterpiece was so scrumptious that I could not resist one two big helpings. Well done, Jake!
The Itinerary
The Islands
Paros
Kolymbithres Beach
The island of Paros is where we embarked on our adventure as well as where we ended it. The island was a great jumping-off point, and for me, it was my favorite island. Both a ferry hub and a beautiful Venetian port, Paros is considered one of the most beautiful islands in the Cyclades, defined by its stunning turquoise beaches, winding streets in whitewashed hillside villages, and lively local tavernas.
Parikia is the island’s main town and port. Here you’ll find the Panagia Ekatontapiliani church, also known as the Church of 100 Doors, one of the best-preserved Christian churches in Greece.
Perhaps more popular than Parikia is the town of Naoussa, alleged to have been a former pirate’s den. Once a small fishing village, Naoussa developed into the most cosmopolitan town on Paros. The marina town is filled with boutique shops and seaside restaurants.
Across the bay from the Naoussa port are the unusual white rock formations jutting up from the crystal clear water of Kolymbithres, the most beautiful beach on Paros.
There’s also the village of Lefkes with the Byzantine architecture of the Agia Triada church sitting in the middle of one of the prettiest squares in the Cyclades.
Anti Paros
Antiparos is a small satellite island just off the island of Paros. It’s a tiny “boutique” island that is often visited by celebrities because it’s so chic and quiet. The posh main town, Chora, is just gorgeous and worth a day trip from Paros.
Ios
Ios was Kary’s favorite island on our Cyclades catamaran adventure, and for good reason. While it is considered to be a party island second only to Mykonos, there’s certainly a lot to do and see here prior to the late evening revelry.
For starters, there are 365 churches, and the best sunset view on the island can be viewed only by hiking up the hillside to the highest point, to the church of Agios Nikolaos.
The island also has the tranquil hillside village of Chora, probably the most picturesque in all the Cyclades with the typical whitewashed architecture, narrow alleys, and traditional old windmills. There are also a lot of really great restaurants. We had dinner with the other four travelers on our yacht at The Mills restaurant, right across from the windmills and with a spectacular view of the lit-up churches on the hill above and the village down below. The food, views, and company just could not be improved upon.
The most popular beach on Ios is Mylopotas. We found a really fun beach bar right across from the beach called Karma. Open-air with a riot of tropical luau colors, it features dozens of private cabanas where you remove your shoes to enter and either sit on the floor on thick colorful cushions or in one of the hammocks (yes, please!).
You can also visit the tomb of the renowned poet Homer; it’s alleged that Homer’s mother was born in Ios.
Schinoussa
Photo credit: Julia Adams
Schinoussa is a small and remote island in the center of the Aegean Sea in the vicinity of the Naxos which is the largest of the Cyclades islands.
There isn’t an awful lot to do on Schinoussa aside from admiring the wild landscape or swimming in one of the secluded beaches. So if you’re looking for a chill vacation, you’ll find it here. You can also opt to hike around the island and admire the pristine natural landscape, indigenous flowers, and exotic palm trees.
One of everyone’s favorite treats with Yacht Getaways was when Skipper Mark anchored the Iris at a remote beach off the coast of Schinoussa so guests could jump off and enjoy a swim in the deep water (see picture above).
Another jumping opportunity came before we got to Naxos where a few of the guests and crew displayed their diving prowess in the very deep water. Impressive form, Kary!
Koufonisia
Enchanting Koufonisia, just a couple of hours away from popular Naxos, is a beautiful island in its own right, but will always hold a special place in our hearts because we got engaged there! If there’s a more romantic place than a stunning Greek island, I haven’t found it yet.
Strolling around the uncrowded, narrow, cobbled alleyways, Koufonisia has the vibe of what it must have been like in Greece in days gone by.
Technically, Koufonisia is a trio of islands. The first, Keros Koufonisia, is off-limits to visitors due to archeological significance; Kato (Lower) Koufonisia is wild and sparsely settled with few amenities; Pano (Upper) Koufonisia is the main island and the one for the best exploration.
Ammos (meaning “sand”) Beach is a beautiful stretch of soft sand with turquoise waters. It is located as soon as you debark in the beautiful main village of Chora (yes, every main village in the Cyclades is called Chora) in Ano Koufonisi. The shimmering turquoise water with the mountain backdrop and fishing boats in between will leave you mesmerized.
I was the recipient of another amazing surprise at this island…. I had shown Skipper Mark a photo I had of a Cyclades beach with soaring cliffs and impossibly emerald green water. I did not know the name of the beach or which island it was on.
But early in the morning, we were leaving Koufonisi, we heard the engines roar to life while all the guests were still in bed. Soon, I clambered up to the navigation deck (not exactly easy before the requisite coffee) to see what was going on. Voila! There in front of us was the photogenic beach I’d been hoping to see! He found it, Faraglioni Beach, and anchored offshore in the shallow bright green water so everyone could take photos and videos. I could not have been happier!
Naxos
Naxos is the largest of the Greek Islands in the Aegean Sea and also once the capital of the Cyclades. While other islands have their main town (Chora) up in the mountains (so it would be harder for plundering pirates to attack), the Chora of Naxos has always been the main port town. It boasts to be the most impressive capital town in the Cyclades.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by its most famous archaeological site — Portara Gate, the doorway to the never-finished ancient Temple of Apollo built in 522 BC, on the Palatia islet. We hiked uphill to the ancient site later in the day to catch the magnificent sunset through the gate.
Inland is incredibly mountainous and villages seem to simply materialize out of the arid valleys. The island is home to the highest mountain in the Cyclades — Mount Zeus, which is the source of much mythology.
Narrow alleys lead up the steep mountainside to a fantastic 13th-century Venetian citadel castle, a landmark that can be seen for miles.
The island of Naxos is huge, and since we docked at 3 pm, we didn’t have time to get to any of the legendary beaches. We walked through town to the beach close to the port, but to be honest, I can’t recommend it. The water really wasn’t pretty at all and there was a lot of seaweed. I recommend trying to find one of the better beaches if you can.
The highlight at Naxos was our dinner at Flamingo. The festively decorated rooftop terrace overlooked the bustling old town below. We listened to live traditional Greek music while watching the sun go down over the azure Aegean Sea. Our meal was excellent – hot peppers stuffed with spicy Naxos gruyere cheese, tender beef fillet with tangy house Flamingo sauce, lamb souvlaki, and ouzo of course! Everything came together so well at Flamingo that we rated it our #1 dining experience of our 3-week Big Fat Greek Adventure!
If you are lucky enough to have more time, here are the best places to stay in Naxos.
The Ending
We ended our Cyclades island hopping with a farewell dinner with the four new friends, passengers (Alicia, Dave, Erin, and Julia) in Naoussa, the upscale marina in northern Paros. We’d gotten to know and like these wonderful people, along with our stellar crew, and it was hard to say goodbye…and end such an enjoyable adventure.
Thanks again to Dave who let me borrow his extra shirt – it was massively windy on the waterfront and I was freezing in my sleeveless top!
Editor’s Note
This Cyclades island hopping cruise was a blast, and I highly recommend it…but for some of my Baby Boomer peeps that may not be as adventurous as me, I’m inclined to categorize it as “adventure” rather than “luxury” (although we found it quite comfortable onboard). I do not, but if you do have some mobility issues, here are a few things to consider:
- In some ports, or because of weather conditions, it was necessary to anchor offshore instead of at the dock. To get ashore, you have to climb down into a wet, slippery inflatable dinghy.
- When docked at port, to get off the boat, you have to walk to the end of a narrow walkway suspended in the air (I called it the gangplank). It doesn’t quite reach the dock and you have to jump about a foot or so onto the dock with the water beneath you.
- The queen bed is very comfortable but it takes up the whole width of the cabin (which is below deck) so you have to scramble on all fours from the foot of the bed across to the front to sleep.
These are not negatives and were not issues for me, but rather just need to be taken into consideration for those with agility issues.
Click below to PIN so you can find Cyclades island hopping again:
All photos and videos ©Kary Kern unless otherwise indicated.
Disclosure: The author was honored to be the guest of Yacht Getaways during her trip, but as always, the opinions, reviews, and experiences are her own.
About the Author
Patti Morrow is a freelance travel writer and founder of the award-winning international blog Luggage and Lipstick and southern travel blog Gone to Carolinas. TripAdvisor called her one of “20 Baby Boomer Travel Bloggers Having More Fun Than Millennials” and she was named one of the “Top 35 Travel Blogs” in the world.
Patti is the author of the book “Girls Go Solo: Tips for Women Traveling Alone,” and has over 150 bylines in 40 print and online publications, including The Huffington Post, International Living Magazine, Washington Post Sunday Travel, Travel Girl, Travel Play Live Magazine, and Ladies Home Journal. She has traveled extensively through six continents looking for fabulous destinations, exotic beaches, and adventure activities for her Baby Boomer tribe.
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