Road Trip Yucatan: Ultimate Guide to Mexico’s Best Gem

April 2, 2023

exploring mexicos yucatan

Road trip Yucatan conjures up so many things to do and see!  Vibrant colonial cities, delicious regional Mayan food, unique cultural experiences, and largely undiscovered beaches make the Yucatán state of Mexico an up-and-coming tourist destination.

Inland from Cancun and the Riviera Maya which have become crowded, commercial, and very expensive, the Yucatán region offers a more authentic Mexican experience. However, I have covered things to do on the Mexico Caribbean coast in another article.

Safety is another factor adding to the growing attraction to this region. “Exercise Normal Precautions ” according to the U.S. Department of State. The safety of this area has been compared to the rural U.S. states of Wyoming, Montana, Oregon, and North Dakota.

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COLONIAL CITIES

Mérida

road trip yucatan

Sunday festivities at Plaza Grande in Merida

Also called “the White City,” Merida is the bustling capital of the Yucatán state. There is much to explore in this city of beautiful old colonial buildings, art galleries, shops, and restaurants. It is an interesting juxtaposition of vibrant Mayan culture and modern city amenities.

The Paseo de Montejo, which locals refer to as their Champs-Élysées, is a lovely tree and sculpture-lined boulevard with upscale shops, restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, boutique hotels, and museums. Many of the buildings have been converted from the exquisite centuries-old colonial mansions. Day or night, walking along the boulevard is always a treat. There are also many horse-drawn carriages all along the way for the foot-weary.

The Paseo de Montejo, which locals refer to as their Champs-Élysées, is a lovely tree and sculpture-lined boulevard with upscale shops, restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, boutique hotels, and museums. Many of the buildings have been converted from the exquisite centuries-old colonial mansions. Day or night, walking along the boulevard is always a treat. There are also many horse-drawn carriages all along the way for the foot-weary.

The central square in Mérida, Plaza Grande, is also surrounded by 18th-century colonial mansions such as the pink Palacio Municipal (city hall) and the Cathedral de San Ildefonso, one of the oldest cathedrals in the Americas, constructed with stones that came from one of the Mayan ruins. On Sundays, the Plaza Grande becomes a vibrant, festive, cultural extravaganza with live music and dancing and rows and rows of stalls selling Mayan and Yucatán street food, Mayan clothing, Panama hats, art, and souvenirs.

Read my full guide to Merida.

Izamal

road trip yucatan

Izamal is called the “Yellow City” because the shops, restaurants, churches and other buildings in the town square and outskirts are all painted a golden yellow. Izamal is one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos (Magic Towns), a distinction from the Mexican Tourism Council to towns with historical or cultural importance.

Close by are four pyramids from which you can view the city square and adjacent is the Convent of San Antonio Padua, painted the same yellow, and the Franciscan monastery which is one of the oldest Catholic monasteries in the Americas.

In the plaza square, you’ll find horse-drawn carriages and a variety of shops selling all sorts of handicrafts made from henequen and other materials.

Izamal is a good base for exploring many important Yucatán sites, such as Chichén Itzá, Mayapan, and Cuzamá.

Read my full guide to Izamal.

Valladolid

road trip yucatan

Located approximately halfway between Cancun and Mérida, Valladolid also enjoys the label as Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos (Magic Towns). As is typical, the main square in the downtown plaza is anchored by the picturesque old cathedral of San Servacio. There’s a park in the middle which frequently holds open-air markets, live music, and food stands; outside the park, you’ll find an arched arcade building with restaurants and shops with Mayan handicrafts and souvenirs, and beautiful pastel colonial churches and other architecture.

Just outside of downtown you’ll find Casa de los Venados, a wonderful home-turned-museum owned by American expats John and Dorianne Venator. They open this home to the public where you can see their vast collection of over 3,000 pieces of Mexican folk art, many of which were commissioned to the artist.

About a 10-minute walk from the main square in downtown is the Convent of San Bernardino de Siena, a Franciscan missionary built around 1552 where you can explore the interior as well as the vast surrounding park.

Valladolid is close to a couple of famous cenotes, the Mayan ruins of Ek Balam, and Chichén Itzá, and Ría Lagartos where flamingos nest, making it a great base for exploring much of the Yucatán.

Read my full guide to Valladolid.

Campeche

campeche

A port city on the Gulf of Mexico, Campeche is known for its preserved baroque colonial buildings painted in different colors, giving the city a whimsical vibe which reminds me of Trinidad, Cuba. The city was a critical defense to pirate attacks, additionally fortified with high walls in the 17th century and two hilltop fortresses that now host museums.

Campeche is about a two-hour drive from Mérida. I recommend staying at an apartment rental in or near the zocolo (main square) so that you can walk to many of the attractions — old town, malecon, fort, etc.

Read my full guide to Campeche.

BEACH TOWNS

Holbox

isla holbox

Located at the top of the Yucatan peninsula, Isla Holbox, or Holbox Island (pronounced hole-bosh), is the best Mexican beach destination, hands-down! Think of a dreamy paradise without the crowds and chaos of Tulum or Playa del Carman, with sugar sand translucent turquoise beaches lined with swaying coconut palms. Add to that a colorful boho vibe, no paved roads, unique food choices, and the opportunity to swim with whale sharks, and you have the perfect tropical vacation spot. And the best part is it’s just 2.5 hours from Cancun to Holbox, and renting a car in Mexico isn’t difficult (but you need to be savvy).

Part of the Yum Balam Nature Reserve, you can swim with whale sharks, see bioluminescent plankton at night, kayak in the mangroves, snorkel, or just swing in a sea hammock while drinking a fresh coconut, the choice is yours.

Holbox town center

Barely more than a decade ago, Holbox was just a tiny fishing village but is becoming more and more popular as the world is discovering its pristine beaches.

Read my full guide to Holbox.

Progreso

road trip yucatan

More a beach town than a colonial city, Progreso is located right on the Gulf of Mexico. Its crystal, emerald-green surf laps onto a white-sand, palapa-lined beach. You can take a leisurely stroll along the newly–paved Malécon which begins at Progreso’s four-mile-long pier, the longest in the world.

The beach scene near the pier is bustling, sometimes with live mariachi bands playing and locals hawking their wares. Across from the beach are cafes and cantinas, and myriad open-air shops selling hand-made crafts, multi-colored blankets, and unique hand-made art and jewelry.

For those desiring solitude, that too can be found in Progreso. Continue walking east along the beach, away from the pier and downtown, and you’ll soon find yourself on a private, secluded beach.

Celestun

Celestun

Celestun is a sleepy little fishing village on the western side of the Yucatan peninsula. The attractive beach is uncrowded, and you can dine on freshly-caught seafood overlooking the sea.

However, most people don’t come to Celestun for pretty beaches – they come for the pretty flamingos. Flamingos are my favorite wildlife, so I could not wait to take an eco-tour boat trip through the lush mangroves of Reserva de la Biosfera Ría Celestun (Celestun River Biosphere Reserve).

Celestun

I was very eager to spot the first flamboyance (aka a group of flamingos – don’t you love that word?). There were flocks of wild pink flamingos on the shores of both sides of the boat. Much to my chagrin, my boat driver would not get too close, so as not to disturb the birds. He even turned off the motor of the boats. Regulations, he said.

Ultimately, I do support eco-tourism but couldn’t help be a bit disappointed not to get a closer look. So do be sure to bring a camera with a long zoom lens if you want good photos, and be sure to check ahead because flamingo visitations are seasonal.

Celestun is three hours from Merida, but it is also one of the few places in the Yucatan where you can catch a beach sunset.

Chelem

chelem

If a cruise ship is in port, don’t fret. 20-minutes west of Progresso is the popular expat town of Chelum with small, but pretty and uncrowded beaches.

Telchac Puerto

tour merida

About a half-hour drive east of Progresso is another beach town called Telchac Puerto. The road from Progreso to Telchac drives along a lagoon (you may spot a few pink flamingos here).

Telchac Puerto

Reef Yucatán All Inclusive is on this beach. It’s not too expensive, as all-inclusives go, but it’s also not the high-end quality or services that you may have come to expect from similar all-inclusives in the Caribbean. And the beds are too firm.

CENOTES

In addition to exploring the colonial cities and beach mentioned above, there are a lot of unique cultural experiences and activities in the Yucatán. Not to be missed are the two types listed below, which can be found in many sizes and locations across the region.

road trip yucatan

Cenotes are underwater sinkholes which the Mayans considered to be sacred places. While there are a variety of cenotes scattered throughout the Yucatán, at Cuzamá you can visit three cenotes located on the same property. The cenotes are located on the grounds of an old henequen hacienda. They are only accessible by horse-drawn railcars, which is an experience in itself.

tour media

To enter the cenotes, you descend down a vertical ladder down into a cave until you reach a fresh, cool-water pool where you can swim. Two of the three cenotes here have an open-top where the sun streams in and the tree roots from the surface reach down to the water, giving it an otherworldly atmosphere.

suytun cenote

I first learned about Cenote Suytun about a year ago, and ever since seeing those amazing Instagram photos I’ve wanted to go. Sometimes what you envision doesn’t come out exactly how you planned. While our photos are okay, we had some negatives to overcome:
  1. the water level inside the cenote has risen and the stone platform is now submerged in 18″ of water;
  2. apparently GoPros are terrible at filming in dark conditions;
  3. you can only catch the sunbeam at noontime, which logistically did not work for our trip.
Still, it was surreal just to be there, and with a bit of editing (taking shadows out), they came out well enough, even if the quality isn’t perfect.

cenote oxman

There are thousands of fantastic cenotes (sinkholes) in the Yucatan, so no matter how many times I return, I always find new ones to explore! Cenote Oxman is inside a collapsed cave where both natural light and tree roots descend into its clear blue waters.

cenote ik kil

One of the most famous and popular Yucatan cenotes, Cenote Ik Kil is a very deep, but open-top cylindrical cenote. This means that the swimming area is open to the sky rather than being enclosed in a cave-like some cenotes. Swimming in the crystal clear waters with the hanging vines cascading into the water is truly breathtaking. Its proximity to Chichen Itza means that it’s always packed with tourists unless you go first thing in the morning… before Chichen Itza if possible.

MAYAN RUINS

Mayan Ruins are also found throughout the Yucatán. It is estimated that there are over 4000 sites in Mesoamerica.

chichen itza

Chichen Itza

Chichén Itzá is by all accounts the largest and best excavated and is a marvel to behold. However, it is usually very crowded with tourists and you can no longer climb El Castillo, the main pyramid.

mayapan

Another great option is Mayapan, considered one of the “big three” sites, along with Uxmal and Chichén Itzá. Driving distance from either Mérida or Izamal, Mayapan is not as well-known with international tourists and because it is not driving distance for a day tour from Cancun, it is far less crowded, although an excellent example of an ancient Mayan city and well worth seeing. Climbing the stone structures is still permitted at Mayapan.

calakmul

Calakmul was an important Mayan city during the Classic Period. Together with Palenque to the west, and Tikal just south in Guatemala, they three ruled the highlands and maintained an intense rivelry. Known as the Kingdom of the Snake, Calakmul had a population of 50,000 during its height. The largest ancient structure is the great pyramid (148′ high) on which I’m sitting above.

edzna
On the way from Merida to Campeche, we saw signs for an ancient Mayan site called Edzna. I’d never heard of it, which makes sense since the western region of the Yucatan isn’t a popular tourist destination.
I did some quick research on my phone, and it looked pretty good and was just 45 minutes from Campeche so we decided to stop. It was awesome! Such a neat little Mayan city and we literally had the whole place to ourselves!

Uxmal

uxmal

Just an hour southwest from Mérida, Uxmal (pronounced óˑʃmáˑl) is one of the best ancient Mayan cities in Mexico. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but nowhere near as crowded as Chichen Itza and easy to explore and roam around.

Built between 700 – 1000 AD, the spellbinding jungle city once had 25,000 inhabitants. Uxmal was well-preserved, even before restoration began. It is believed to have been taken over by Toltec invaders during the 12th century.

Visiting Uxmal is a treat; the ruins are well-preserved, giving a glimpse into Mayan life.  The intricate grounds include the famous five-level Temple of the Magician, and the Governor’s Palace, which rests on a massive platform and is aligned with the path of Venus when viewed from the Pyramid of Cehtzuc. Fine examples of carved stone are displayed throughout.

Unlike Chichen Itza, it is still permitted to climb on and inside the ruins.

Dzibilchaltún

I didn’t get the change to here, but Dzibilchaltún archaeological site is close to central Mérida and you’re likely to be the only tourist at this small site. The main attraction is the Temple of the Seven Dolls, which had seven figurines set on a platform, discovered when the monument was first excavated in the 1950s.The temple is oriented so that at sunrise during spring or autumn equinox, the sun flows through the doors of Templo de las Siete Munecas, making them glow, since they are perfectly aligned with the sun.Dzibilchaltún also has ruins of a church and a small museum.

WHERE TO STAY

Luz En Yucatán, Mérida

road trip yucatan

Don’t be fooled by the plain façade on the street. As soon as you open the heavy, old wooden door, you will enter a beautiful tropical urban retreat concealed within the city. From the many colonial corridors beautifully furnished, to the pool in the secluded courtyard, the Luz En Yucatán is a hidden gem. The penthouse unit has an outdoor kitchen, patio, and even an inviting hammock – all overlooking the city. And the location could not be more perfect,… adjacent to Santa Lucia square which has live music, dancing and shops, a 5-minute walk the bustling Plaza Grande and a 15-minute walk to Paseo de Montejo. Owner Donard O’Neill is a very amicable and helpful host for whatever needs his patrons might have.

Hacienda San Pedro Nophat, San Pedro

road trip yucatan

Converted from an authentic hacienda into a bed and breakfast, the Hacienda offers local Mexican flavor and is an oasis just outside of Mérida Centro. The aged grounds are well-kept and picturesque, maintaining much of the original charm. Host Iona Chamberlin is very friendly – giving suggestions for nearby restaurants and will even organize a group dinner excursion for the guests, including a unique bike “taxi” which is a lot of fun. The rooms are very spacious and the beds are the most comfortable in the entire region.

Casa Hamaca, Valladolid

road trip yucatan

Located right on San Juan square, behind gates and a path through a lush “jungle garden,” Casa Hamaca is an unexpected refuge in the city of Valladolid. The location is walking distance to myriad restaurants, shops, and museums. The suites are very spacious and immaculate including very large bathrooms with built-in closets and huge walk-in showers. Casa owner, expat Denis Larsen personally greets guests at check-in and will provide helpful information and directions to activities and sites specific to your desires. He also has breakfast every morning with the guests, chatting amicably from table to table, sharing his extensive knowledge of the area and giving sightseeing tips.

Hotel Macan ché, Izamal

The extensive path-lined lush, tropical gardens weaving around personal casitas give this property a unique secret paradise charm. Just a few blocks walking distance to downtown Izamal gives access to all the restaurants, shops and sights without the noise of the city. Hotel Macan ché has one of the most unique pools in the area, with the bottom made from a huge slab of rough-hewn stone, making it look more like a natural grotto than a swimming pool.

WHAT TO EAT

Yuz En Yucatán

The regional Yucatán and Mayan cuisines are different than traditional Mexican food, and quite delicious.

Hacienda Teya, Mérida. This beautiful, upscale hotel and restaurant is renowned for its flan, which is very good, but it’s the tapas that bring tourists and locals back – they are excellent, probably the best in the Yucatán, especially the salbutes, an authentic Yucatán specialty. These small, puffed, deep-fried tortillas are topped with pulled pork, chopped cabbage, tomato, pickled red onion, avocado, and are served with optional 5-alarm habanero pepper puree.

Kinish, Izamal. Filet de Yucatán is a regional Mayan dish – pork fillet marinated in tamarind seeds and chile peppers and sour orange then sautéed and served with pickled onions and black beans. The restaurant is very large, airy and nicely decorated, with festive Mayan music playing while you eat.

Eladio’s, Progreso. Located right on the beach with free parking, you can sit inside for more formal dining or outside under an umbrella table just steps from the shore. Their chimichangas – burritos, delicately fried to a satisfying crunch and filled with shredded beef, cheese, salsa, and sour cream – are a treat. Unlike the Tex-Mex version, the Yucatán chimichangas are not filled and folded over before deep frying but folded over empty before frying then adding the fresh ingredients to order. They can be messy to eat, but worth the extra effort.

La Susana, Kanasin. Though not as good as the tamales at Susana’s in Rosarito, the tamales here are listed as an appetizer but are more than enough for a meal. Try the local chaya drink made from spinach. The best part of going to this restaurant if you are staying nearby is to take one of the “local” taxis – an open-air cart where customers sit while being pedaled by a bicycle or sometimes a small motorcycle. Very fun!

Throughout the Yucatán, you can readily find Churros, a crisp, deep-fried doughnut coated liberally with cinnamon sugar. They are usually sold in bags because just one is seldom enough.

You may also be interested in:

Exploring Yucatan with Kids

Devouring My Way Through the Yucatan

Running a Business in a Historic Hacienda

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About the Author

Patti MorrowPatti Morrow is a freelance travel writer and founder of the award-winning international blog Luggage and Lipstick and southern travel blog Gone to Carolinas. TripAdvisor called her one of “20 Baby Boomer Travel Bloggers Having More Fun Than Millennials.”  Patti is the author of the book “Girls Go Solo: Tips for Women Traveling Alone,” and has over 150 bylines in 40 print and online publications, including The Huffington Post, International Living Magazine, Washington Post Sunday Travel, Travel Girl, Travel Play Live Magazine, and Ladies Home Journal.  She has traveled six continents looking for fabulous places and adventure activities for her Baby Boomer (and Gen X!) tribe.

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