The first major stop on our Yacht Getaways Cyclades Islands of Greece sailing adventure was Ios. What a perfect beginning because there are so many fun things to do in Ios!
Ios is a Greek island in the Cyclades group in the Aegean Sea, roughly halfway between Naxos and Santorini. It’s is a hilly island with cliffs running down to the sea, pristine beaches, picturesque whitewashed buildings, blue-domed churches, and rich mythological folklore.
Allegedly, the name was derived from the Ancient Greek word for violets “Ία” (Ia) because of the abundance found growing on the island and it is the most accepted etymology.
Emerging from the shadows of the more well-known party island of Mykonos, Ios is a Millennial-infused party island but is also popular with Baby Boomers. In reality, the party season only lasts for July and August. Especially during the day, Ios oozes a laid-back vibe with loads of fabulous things to do beyond the bars. Stroll through the winding white-washed buildings of old town replete with delicious cafes and boutique shops, take in the suburb sunset view at Panagia Gremiotissa, explore Skarkos archaeological site and Greek poet Homer’s tomb, just to name a few can’t-miss things to do in Ios.
Ios At a Glance
- Area: 42.09 mi²
- Size: 11 miles long, 6 miles wide
- Population: 2,024
- Area code: 22860
- Lowest elevation: 0 ft
Weather in Ios
Ios has a pleasant, summer Mediterranean climate with mild winters. Similar to other Cyclades islands such as Paros, there is an almost constant breeze from the north during summer, known as Meltemi, which moderates temperatures.
Pop Culture History of Ios
The first thing we did after docking on Ios was inviting Timothy – Ios’s unofficial tourism host – on board to give us a brief rundown of the island’s history and tourist sites.
- 1950s – Ios was established as a penal island
- 1960s – Became a hippy destination
- 1970s – Because it was cheap, it attracted a young demographic
- 1980s/90s –Attracted backpackers and became party central
He told us about the “donkey trail” an approximately 20-minute hike uphill to Chora (old town), boasting some of the most beautiful white-washed architecture in the Cyclades [kikˈlaðes].
Timothy’s interesting facts about Chora architecture:
- Pirate checkpoints – alleys so narrow that pirates’ swords would get caught, temporarily halting them and allowing their would-be victims to get away.
- The tradition of having white rings around the stones in the walkways was created before plumbing when lime wash was cast out into the alleys by the residents.
- All churches face west
Here are my top ten things to do in Ios:
10 Homer’s Tomb
The island is very strongly connected with Homer, considered the greatest Greek epic poet. According to legend, Homer died in Ios. Homer wrote both the Odyssey and the Iliad and decided to spend the last part of his life on Ios because his mother Critheïs was born there. His tomb is located on a hill in the northeast area of Ios overlooking the Aegean Sea.
According to legend, Homer died because he defied a Pythian oracle, who told him, “Your mother’s home is the island of Ios, which will accept you when you die, but you should be careful of the enigma of the young children.” One account says that after defying the oracle by traveling to Ios, in an encounter with children who were fishing, he remembered the warning, ran through the mud, slipped, and hit his head.
The marble plaque is inscribed with the words “Here is covered in the ground the holy head of the maker of heroes divine Homer.” It has never been proved that either Homer or his head is actually buried here but it’s a nice memorial with beautiful scenic views of the Aegean Sea.
9 Skarkos
Skarkos is an early Bronze Age archaeological excavation site not far from the port of Ios. It is one of the best-preserved prehistoric sites in the Aegean. You’ll also get a good view of Skarkos from the top of Chora to view the spiral walls.
Discovered in 1984, an estimated 200-300 people once lived at Skarkos in the ancient stone buildings. Excavations have unearthed marble sculptures, ceramics, and primitive tools.
Tours are available to learn about the structure of the site as well as the ancient burial ceremonies.
8 Chill at Karma
Located at Milopotas Beach (#5 below) is one of my favorite chill places on the whole island! Karma, directly across from the beach, is a kaleidoscope of vibrant tropical colors. Besides the main restaurant and bar, it offers a dozen or so individual, private seating areas. After removing your shoes, you can either sit on the floor amidst oversized, puffy cushions and low tables or nab one of the cozy hammocks, some of which have beach views. Guess which option I choose? I loved this place so much Kary had to pry me off my hammock!
7 Snorkel
The water of the Aegean Sea is so blue and so clear that you cannot miss donning your snorkel and mask. For the best, crowd-free experience (especially during high season), head to one of the remote beaches accessible only by boat (see #1 below).
6 Eat at The Mills
Another feature largely associated with the Cyclades Greek islands are the iconic windmills. In fact, these were used in the past all over Greece, to grind wheat and other crops. Ios has 12 windmills, which are no longer operational but a few of which have been restored. At the top of Chora (perfect spot for catching wind) are a scattering of these historic weathered windmills.
They make for a great photo op, as well as a magnificent view while eating dinner. The Mills is located just next to several of the windmills, and the view also takes in the three magnificent churches at the top of Chora, even more spectacular when they are lit up after dark, looking like they are floating in mid-air.
Ios is famous for its local cheeses made from milk from goats or sheep. My favorite dish in my entire three weeks in Greece was bouyioudi, a concoction of feta with thinly sliced tomatoes, peppers, and onions, seasoned with olive oil, sea salt, red pepper flakes, and oregano, then baked until bubbly in a clay pot. I ordered this every time I saw it on the menu, including at Mills.
5 Mylopotas Beach
We only had one day in Ios so we went to Mylopotas Beach because it was conveniently located a short bus ride from the port. Its location, however, is only one of the reasons why this beach is so popular.
The most visited beach on the island, Mylopotas Beach is a great place to enjoy the cool, crystal blue waters and golden sand of the Aegean. The calm water is deep enough to swim and the adjacent street is lined with beach bars and restaurants. Many restaurants have sunbeds and umbrellas for rent and some won’t charge you if you order food or drinks from them. You’ll also find all sorts of water sports equipment you can rent.
We stayed here for a couple of hours, taking refreshment at Karma (see #8 above), and then hopping back on the bus – not back to port, but halfway, to Chora to explore the hillside village and climb up to the top for the best sunset view in Ios.
Note: This isn’t the prettiest beach on Ios, but rather was convenient. Manganari is allegedly the most beautiful.
4 Hike to Panagia Gremiotissa
One of the island’s landmarks and most famous churches is Panagia Gremiotissa, located high up in the hills of Chora Old Town.
As you head up the road from the port, you will see a white-lined staircase. This is the old donkey path from the port to the Chora. The steep path snakes through the ancient walls and iconic Cycladic homes, rewarding you with stunning views when you reach the summit. Blue and white-domed roofs below make a great site for photographs, while the picturesque white bell tower of Panayia Gremiotissa with two palm trees in the courtyard is one of the most captured images on the island.
Be careful walking back in the dark as the path is uneven and not well-lit.
3 Chora (Old Town)
In Ios, all roads lead to Chora, also the classic Greek capital. The Old Town is built into the scenic hillside with a labyrinth of steep stairs, narrow stone alleys, whitewashed houses with blue painted doors and shutters, and bougainvillea spilling over the sills. The passageways are lined with bistros, souvenir shops, and bars.
Chora is known for its peaceful ambiance by day, and we didn’t see another soul as we climbed to the top for the sunset views. However, it’s a different story after dark; if you’re looking for the ubiquitous lively nightlife scene, you’ll find it here. For bar-hopping, Chora is the best place as there are dozens of bars and clubs to choose from, whether you want a few cheap shots of ouzo or music and upscale cocktails.
2 Sunset
After exploring Panagia Gremiotissa (#4 above), be sure to climb a few extra steps to reach the cliff-top St. Nicholas church, where you can enjoy some beautiful sunset views over the Aegean.
Since the area is small you should arrive early if you are in Ios during the high season, (July – August).
1 Boat to Almyros Beach
Many beaches on Ios are only accessible by boat. Since we were on a sailing tour, this was one of the best things we had the opportunity to do. Right before docking at Ios port, our skipper Mark Saunders anchored off Almyros, a hidden, secluded cove north of the port. It was fabulous! Just take a look at that gorgeous blue water! We jumped off the boat into the cool, clear water, with not another soul in sight. Heavenly.
All photos ©Kary Kern unless otherwise indicated.
Click below to PIN so you can find things to do in Ios again:
Disclosure: The author was honored to be the guest of Yacht Getaways during her visit to the Cyclades, but as always, the opinions, reviews, and experiences are her own.
About the Author
Patti Morrow is a freelance travel writer and founder of the award-winning international blog Luggage and Lipstick and southern travel blog Gone to Carolinas. TripAdvisor called her one of “20 Baby Boomer Travel Bloggers Having More Fun Than Millennials” and she was named one of the “Top 35 Travel Blogs” in the world.
Patti is the author of the book “Girls Go Solo: Tips for Women Traveling Alone,” and has over 150 bylines in 40 print and online publications, including The Huffington Post, International Living Magazine, Washington Post Sunday Travel, Travel Girl, Travel Play Live Magazine, and Ladies Home Journal. She has traveled extensively through six continents looking for fabulous destinations, exotic beaches, and adventure activities for her Baby Boomer tribe.
2 comments
Comment by Timothy Bender
Timothy Bender February 8, 2022 at 11:33 pm
Hi Patti!!! Nice to read your fantastic blog and hear your stories of your time on our beautiful island. It is indeed a magical spot !! Hope you will come and visit us again!!! Happy travels!! Timothy
Comment by luggageandlipstick
luggageandlipstick February 9, 2022 at 6:51 pm
I’m glad you liked it, Timothy! Did you see my article on Ios? You’re in it. 🙂
https://luggageandlipstick.com/things-to-do-in-ios/