Edinburgh is renowned for its fascinating history, rich culture, lively festivals, and architectural splendor. Spread across seven hills, the city has a bit of a Jekyll and Hyde persona with two very different faces. First, you have the medieval Old Town with its narrow, cobbled alleys and towering, fascinatingly grungy Gothic structures, witch hunts, myths, and legends. Then you have the impressive Georgian New Town (which is not really “new”) with its lovely green spaces, wide boulevards, and high-end shopping and restaurants. There are so many things to do in Edinburgh for couples!

There’s a lot of history to soak up, including one of its most iconic landmarks, Edinburgh Castle, perched atop Castle Rock and offering panoramic views of the city.

But there’s also something that will lure non-history tourists: the fascinating city and surrounding area have inspired and hosted some amazing literature and filming sites, such as Outlander, Harry Potter, The Crown, Monty Python, and more.

We opted to tour Edinburgh with Scotland Folk Tours and loved the commentary and insight (and fun!) they provided. Here’s my review of Tour of Scotland: Beyond the Tartan.

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Edinburgh at a Glance

• Burgh Charter: 1125
• City status: 1633
• Elevation: 154 ft.
• Founded: Before the 7th century AD

Brief History

In the past, Edinburgh Castle was often under English control, but before the 10th Century, Edinburgh was under the control of the Anglo-Saxons and Danes. The city has been the capital of Scotland since 1437, hosting the Scottish Parliament.

During the Enlightenment of the 18th century, the city experienced an unprecedented wave of intellectual, scientific, and architectural accomplishments which bestowed upon the city the nickname “Athens of the North.”

Here are the best things to do in Edinburgh for couples.

15 National Museum

If it happens to rain during your visit to Edinburg (which, admittedly happens a lot), consider visiting the National Museum of Scotland. The Grand Gallery in particular is one of Edinburgh’s most majestic indoor spaces. The tall atrium has a glass roof, allowing the building to be well lit, and large exhibits hang from the ceiling.

The museum houses a collection of twelve million exhibits from ancient time right up to the modern era spread out through its numerous, diverse galleries. Here, visitors will find exhibits dedicated to art, design, fashion, technology, nature, history, archaeology, and world cultures. Some tourist favorites are the giant T-Rex and of course, Dolly the sheep – the first cloned mammal.

And best of all, entry to the museum is free.

14 Royal Botanical Gardens

Located in New Town, Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Garden is more than 350 years old, covers 72 acres, and is the perfect place for a tranquil stroll. Founded in 1670, the Garden is acknowledged to be one of the finest in the world where unusual and beautiful plants can be found.

The Royal Botanic Garden’s collection is considered the world’s richest assemblage of rhododendrons, and it has been a major center for study since the late 19th century. Also not to be missed are the giant redwood trees in the Woodland Garden.

13 St. Giles Cathedral

Designed in the Gothic tradition, St. Giles Cathedral was founded in 1124 and is older than most of Old Town. It serves as the official Church of Scotland.

The ancient church is definitely worth taking a stroll inside to view the stunning stained glass windows, intricate wood and stone carvings, and colorful banners lining the old nave.

St. Giles has seen drastic alterations since its inception, especially after it switched allegiances from Roman Catholic to Presbyterian during the 1500s Scottish Reformation.

12 Mary’s Milk Bar

If you want to try the best gelato in Edinburgh, head to Mary’s Milk Bar in the Grassmarket. It’s no secret, so be prepared for a long line (unless it’s raining, as when we were there). I had a three-scoop cone of honey-cinnamon, pistachio, and dark chocolate salted caramel.

Editor’s secret: grab your cone and turn the corner to the Vennel Steps for the best view of Edinburgh Castle while you eat your treat.

11 Princes Street

Situated between Old Town and New Town, Princes Street is almost impossible to miss when exploring Edinburgh. You’ll find popular attractions like the Princes Street Gardens under the towering castle, once a boggy lake known as the Nor Loch where “witches” were thrown in and drowned in the 17th and 18th centuries. The gardens contain the Ross Fountain, a noteworthy cast-iron fountain sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Jules Klagmann; a floral clock, which is not only created seasonally with thousands of real flowers but also tells accurate time.

The Scott Monument (compared to a gothic rocket ship) is a memorial to Sir Walter Scott, who wrote famous novels and poems such as Ivanhoe and Rob Roy is one of the most impressive monuments in Edinburgh. Take the steps to the monument’s top for great views over the city and the Princes Street Gardens.

On the other side of Princes Street are the entrances to New Town. Built in 1770, the “new” town is a fully planned UNESCO World Heritage Site constructed on one of the first grid patterns. New Town is filled with beautiful Georgian mansions, endless squares and green spaces, upscale cafés, big retail stores, and private art galleries.

10 Arthur’s Seat

Arthur’s Seat, part of a massive extinct volcano, is the best place to get a wide angle panoramic view over Edinburgh, the sea, and the surrounding countryside. The peak’s name has links to the legends of King Arthur and serves as one of Edinburgh’s most iconic and visited natural sights.

Starting from the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the wild, rugged, and rocky hike takes around two hours roundtrip. Just make sure to take a jacket and/or raincoat on windy days, it can get quite blustery and rain can come up suddenly.

Along the way is a fort dating from around 600 A.D. Arthur’s Seat is a historical place and is considered to be the possible location of Camelot, King Arthur’s legendary castle!

9 Holyrood House

Holyrood Palace is the official home to the King when he is in Scotland and was palace of choice of the former Queen when visiting Edinburgh. The palace has housed many other notable royal figures throughout history, including King George V, Charles I and Mary, Queen of Scots from 1561-1567. Perched just across from the Scottish Parliament, at the bottom of the Royal Mile, it’s a great place to get a peek into royal life.

When the current monarch isn’t on site, visitors are welcome to tour parts of the property but are not permitted to take photos inside.

8 Greyfriars Kirkyard

Tucked down a cobbled street off George IV Bridge, Greyfriars Kirkyard (meaning churchyard) is a fascinating place to examine mossy old gravestones. Perusing the inscriptions on the tombs, you might spot some familiar names, like Ebenezer Scroggy, said to be the inspiration for Charles Dickens’ Scrooge in “A Christmas Carol.”

Housing the dead since the late 1500s, Greyfriars Kirkyard is said to be one of the most haunted spots in Scotland. You can join a tour leading visitors through the dark mausoleums and shadowy corners of the graveyard accompanied by spooky tales of poltergeists, witches, and body snatchers.

At the entrance to the graveyard is a statue of its most famous inhabitant, Greyfriars Bobby, a Skye terrier, who slept on his deceased master’s grave until he also passed away fourteen years later. He is so popular that there is also another statue of the best-loved icon on the Royal Mile.

7 Calton Hill

If you’re not up or don’t have time for the walk up to Arthur’s Seat, there is an easier alternative, Calton Hill. Founded in 1724, it’s one of the most popular vantage points for photo-ops (and included in the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site distinction), and only takes around ten minutes to climb.

The hill also houses some of Edinburgh’s iconic monuments such as the Robbie Burns Monuments, the City Observatory, and the National Monument – an unfinished acropolis modeled after the Parthenon and dedicated to Scotland’s soldiers.

6 Whisky Tasting

Whisky connoisseurs shouldn’t miss the chance to taste famous Scottish single malts. Called the “water of life” (or “uisge beatha” in Gaelic) there are quite a few places to indulge in a whisky tasting tour, the most popular (and commercial) being the Whisky Experience and the Johnny Walker Experience.

Full transparency, I don’t like or drink whisky, but I did have a really fun time at the Waverley Bar, a unique Scottish pub established in the 1920s in Edinburgh’s Old Town. It was one of the best things to do in Edinburgh for couples — even for a non-drinker!

Conducted on the second floor with its eclectic décor reminiscent of a turn of the century gathering room, we were taken on a journey through 2000 years of Scottish history and secrets of whisky-making. We tried a selection of four high-quality single malt whiskies from hinting of vanilla (?) to very peaty (smoky).

After sampling a wee dram of the firewater samples, we were treated to a private concert of traditional Scottish folk music by our leader Jackson Grimm and his colleague Caolan Keogh (who’d flown in from Ireland just for the jam).

5 Grassmarket

Eating a deep-fried mars bar.

One of the oldest parts of Edinburgh, the Grassmarket is a pub and shop-lined street beneath Edinburgh Castle. Pubs have been here for centuries with outdoor seating for the rare sunny days. Founded in 1516, The White Hart Inn is allegedly Edinburgh’s oldest and most haunted pub. The Grassmarket can be rowdy on the weekends but it’s a fun and festive atmosphere.

4 Victoria Street

Instagrammer Alert! Branching directly off the northeast corner of the Grassmarket, Victoria Street is a picture-perfect rainbow of old townhouses, said to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley in the “Harry Potter” books. There’s very little traffic on the street, making it easy to pose in front of the iconic buildings. Look for the twisting spiral stone staircase that leads up to Victoria Terrace with an exceptional view of the street below before.

3 Edinburg Castle

Walking in the footsteps of kings and queens, we had fun exploring historic Edinburgh Castle! Dating back to the 11th century, the castle is hoisted high atop Castle Rock, which has been occupied by humans since at least the Iron Age, and it has been a royal residence until 1633. The extensive grounds also encompass a prison, museums, a military garrison with canons, crown jewels, the birth room of James VI (only son of Mary Queen of Scots), and other buildings. Don’t miss the quiet calm of Saint Margaret’s Chapel, built in 1130, the oldest building in Edinburgh.

The castle is not only one of Scotland’s most recognized landmarks, but one of the country’s most-visited attractions. It has a bloody history, having changed hands between the Scottish and English after many sieges throughout the centuries. The stone walls survived a World War I bombing.

The one o’clock cannon is fired every day, a tradition that goes way back to the 19th Century whereby maritime captains would set their clocks to navigate the oceans.

2 Dean Village

We landed in Edinburgh, Scotland at 8 am after a redeye flight, and although we were tired, we dropped our bags at our hotel in New Town and walked over to beautiful Dean Village (from dene, meaning “deep valley”). The picturesque little hamlet was one of my must-see places in Edinburgh.

The rural village has steep hills on all sides, abuts a tranquil river, and is flanked by colorful flowering gardens, old watermills, 19th-century buildings and a museum. Showcasing a lovely and distinctive combination of historic architecture, Dean Village evolved from an industrial hub to an utterly residential neighborhood with a harmonious blend of heritage and natural beauty.

The Dean Village went undiscovered for many years and was something of a local secret until the rise of social media. There were not many tourists this early on this cool but sunny morning, so we able to capture some great photos.

1 Royal Mile

Stretching from the towering Edinburgh Castle to the exquisite Palace of Holyrood House, the Royal Mile is Old Town Edinburgh’s main, most popular, and most attractive cobbled thoroughfare. Along the 1.13 mile-long route, you’ll find medieval pubs serving up traditional Scottish fare, boutique shops selling traditional Scottish tartan clothing, museums, and of course the ubiquitous Scotch whisky shops. It’s a great way to see some of the oldest buildings in Edinburgh, but also to get a sense of how historic this city is.

The Royal Mile captures the essence of the city. You can often hear bagpipes by

St. Giles’ Cathedral, have afternoon tea at Signet Library, or visit the oldest building on the Royal Mile, the John Knox’s House (the famous 16th–century preacher) dating back to 1470.

One of the best things to explore along the Royal Mile are the celebrated closes – historic, narrow laneways hidden behind arched entrances.

This small part of the city once charged tolls to people entering and leaving. Unfortunately, this resulted in the poorest people being trapped inside. The Tollhouse Tavern is a historic pub bearing the name (but be forewarned, while the pub is historic, we found the service to be terrible).

Fun Fact: “Gardyloo!” was a warning cry given before throwing dirty water from a window. Those living on the top floor of tenements would dispose of their urine by emptying the container into the street out of an open window, shouting “Gardyloo!” to warn anyone below that something nasty was coming their way. It derives from the French term “gardez l’eau” which means “beware of the water!”  Eventually, the slang word for toilette in the UK became just “loo.”

You may also be interested in:

• Tour of Scotland: Beyond the Tartan
• Scottish Cuisine You Must Try!
• Best Things to Do in the Isle of Skye
• What to Do in Inverness
• Best Things to Do in Stirling

Most photos by Kary Kern.

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About the Author

Patti Morrow is a freelance travel writer and founder of the award-winning international blog Luggage and Lipstick and the southern travel blog Gone to Carolinas. TripAdvisor called her one of the “20 Baby Boomer Travel Bloggers Having More Fun Than Millennials” and she was named one of the “Top 35 Travel Blogs” in the world.

She is also the star of the upcoming TV series “Destination Takeover” which is scheduled to premiere in the next few months.

Patti is the author of the book “Girls Go Solo: Tips for Women Traveling Alone,” and has over 150 bylines in 40 print and online publications, including The Huffington Post, International Living Magazine, Washington Post Sunday Travel, Travel Girl, Travel Play Live Magazine, and Ladies Home Journal. She has traveled extensively through six continents looking for fabulous destinations, exotic beaches, and adventure activities for her Baby Boomer tribe.

Disclosure:  The author was honored to be the guest of Scottish Folk Tours during her stay, but as always, the opinions, reviews, and experiences are her own.