Bacalar Mexico is often called “the Maldives of Mexico.” Having now been to both, I’d concur that’s an accurate description.
The local Mayans call Bacalar the Lagoon of Seven Colors because they say you can see seven shades of blue in the pristine water. We counted them, and sure enough, you can…from the lightest aqua that shimmers in the sunlight to deep indigo blue on the horizon. Seriously, Bacalar Mexico is arguably prettier and more enchanting than any Caribbean Beach. Bacalar Mexico is utterly unforgettable.
Because of its location near the Belize border Belize border, Bacalar Mexico was once a secret gem. The Mexican government highlighted Bacalar on its list of Pueblos Mágicos in 2006 as an important cultural landmark to encourage tourism, and now, thanks in part to social media, the stunning turquoise lake and laidback town are beginning to be discovered.
The area is traditionally Mayan, with a Pre-Columbian city that Conquistadores colonized in 1543. In the 1600s, pirates frequently attacked after entering the lagoon through a canal.
How to Get to Bacalar
Bacalar is pretty far south in the Yucatán, less than half an hour from the Belize border. We visited as part of our Yucatan road tip, between Chetumal and Mahahual. Although you can get to Bacalar by bus, we recommend renting a car if you’re planning on exploring the Yucatán region in depth. Having your own vehicle offers much more flexibility, especially if you want to visit some of the area’s off-the-beaten-path attractions such as the lesser-crowded Mayan sites and cenotes.
Unlike most parts of Mexico, the roads around the Yucatán are fairly well-maintained and once you get the hang of driving in the narrow streets of the old colonial towns, it’s a breeze.
- Cancún: 5 hours
- Mérida: 5 hours
- Tulum: 2 hours
- Playa del Carmen: 3.5 hours
- Valladolid: 4 hours
- Chetumal: 45 minutes
- Mahahual: 1.25 hours
Word of caution: be savvy when renting a car in Mexico. They are known to be scammers that try to exact hidden fees and extra insurance. Insurance is required, but if you buy it from home, make sure you have printouts of the insurance coverage and confirmation from credit card coverage (a letter from your carrier).
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Best Time to Visit Bacalar
December through March has the least rainfall and more pleasant temperatures but it’s also high season and more crowded.
May is the hottest month with an average daytime temperature of 95°F.
June through November is the rainy season and also the hurricane season.
We visited Bacalar during the shoulder season in April and it was fantastic! It was warm but not horribly hot and some tourists but not super-packed.
How many days in Bacalar?
To make the most of your trip to Bacalar, we highly recommend staying at least 2 nights. There are a lot of fabulous and unique outdoor activities in this beautiful town, such as the jaw-dropping 7-colored lake, rapids, charming downtown, and nearby Mayan ruins.
Packing for Bacalar
I have created two packing guides that would be useful for Bacalar. There are some overlaps, but I suggest you take a look at both.
The ONLY beach packing list you’ll ever need!
10 Fuerte de San Felipe
Bacalar was once an important Mayan trading center before the town was conquered by the Spanish in 1543. In addition, pirates frequently ransacked the area, using the lagoon to hide their ships.
Constructed in 1725 by the governor of Yucatán, Antonio de Figueroa to defend against pirates, the stone fortress with moat rests in the main square in downtown Bacalar. Visitors can climb on top of it for one of the best views over the lagoon. The fort was converted to a museum in the early 1980s. Learn about the local pirate history, view a pirate skeleton, and while imagining what it must have been like during the time of pirates’ rule.
9 Find Street Art
We kind of found these attractions by accident! We parked our car and were looking to go to the fort and downtown but took a wrong turn. We found a lot of colorful street art outside of the downtown. So venture out and explore.
8 Lagoon at Sunrise
Sleeping in is not recommended in Bacalar Mexico! Even someone like me who is definitely NOT a morning person will want to rise early.
The “Lake of Seven Colors” which offers hues varying from light greens to the deepest blues is actually a combination of a bunch of cenotes that collapsed together and formed a 26-mile-long lagoon (the largest freshwater body in Mexico). It gets its seven vibrant colors, thanks to the white sandy bottom and the crystal clear waters of varying depths.
Given Bacalar’s position on the western edge of the lagoon, the sunrises here are nothing short of spectacular.
It’s certainly worth booking a hotel directly on the water, which we did. We grabbed a mug of coffee and secured our position on lounge chairs that were almost cantilevered over the lagoon. Catching a phenomenal sunrise should be on your agenda for at least one morning during your stay. Catching the ever-changing colors as the sun came up over, illuminating the tranquil water was one of our favorite laid-back experiences of our month-long Yucatan road trip.
7 Bacalar Town
While Bacalar has generally remained somewhat off the radar, there are still domestic visitors that flock to the cute downtown. Indeed, it contains the ubiquitous “letters” that you can find all around Mexico that provide the beloved photo op that tourists love. The Bacalar sign is located in the park and has vibrant colors that contrast with the blue water of the lake behind it.
The “downtown” is really only a couple of blocks, so you can easily explore it in an afternoon. You’ll find shops selling local handicrafts, ice cream shops, bars, and quite a good selection of restaurants offering different kinds of cuisine. We were in the mood for Italian food and found it!
6 Mayan Ruins
Skeleton in Oxtanka
Although Bacalar was an important commercial center for the Mayans, there are no ruins in the city itself, but there are options if you’re willing to take a day trip.
Roughly about an hour away will take you to either Oxtankah or Kohunlich. Oxtankah offers a variety of temples, pyramids, and palaces, dating back as old as 300 BC and has an ancient skeleton on site. Alternatively, Kohunlich tucked away in the middle of a jungle, has five temples dating back to 200 BC.
While neither of these is as impressive as Chichen Itza which is about four hours away, you can still get a taste of Mayan history at these.
5 Chill at a Beach Club
Bacalar is such a chill town, so “while in Rome…” Because it’s without white sandy beaches, we took advantage of getting into the bath-warm water while enjoying the local beach clubs. At Cocolitos and Los Rapidos in particular, we enjoyed hammocks over the water, docks, and refreshments at restaurants.
4 View from a Hammock
You can find hammocks and over-water swings everywhere! They are a great way to escape the heat and relax, not to mention get your Instagram moment!
Cocolitos and Los Rapidos had hammocks cantilevered over the water and our hotel had one at the end of a long deck. Is there anything better than swaying in a gentle breeze while admiring the gorgeous seven shades of the lagoon? I think not.
3 Kayak
Another great way to explore the strikingly clear lagoon is via kayak. Our hotel and many other hotels and guesthouses offer complementary kayaks to guests to explore the crystal clear lagoon. Or you can rent a kayak in town and head off on your own or with a guided tour.
Even though we could get a kayak at our hotel, we chose to kayak at Los Rapidos. The ecosystem there is spectacular. Looking down at the ancient stromatolites under the crystal clear water was surreal.
Note: most places also offer paddleboards – but I’m not a fan. I’d much prefer a tandem kayak for social reasons. Okay, and it’s easier for me since I generally take the photos while Kary paddles.
2 Float Los Rapidos
Talk about a WOW Factor! A must-do experience in Bacalar is Los Rápidos. Aka “The Narrows,” Los Rápidos is the narrow channel that connects the lagoon of Bacalar with the lagoon of Xul-Ha, creating a strong current down the channel where you can float and let yourself be carried away downstream. Because of the limestone bottom, the crazy turquoise color of the channel is surreal!
The mangrove channel is lined on both sides with stromatolites (sedimentary formations created by colonies of microorganisms.) The one-cell organisms carry out photosynthesis. These fossils are the oldest forms of life on the planet, allegedly appearing between 2.5 and 1 billion years ago and Bacalar is one of the very few places on earth where they exist. Much like coral, they are fragile and you should not walk on them.
Even though the river looks slow-moving I found out the hard way that it was stronger than I thought. I chose not to wear my lifejacket because of…you know…wrecking the photo op. It was hard to stop, especially since I’m not a strong swimmer AT ALL. Luckily, I was able to grab onto some ropes near the end (apparently I’m not the only one to have this problem) and pull myself out.
There’s a restaurant onsite overlooking the lazy river that is very festive, blaring out excellent pop-Latin music and serving up tasty snacks and drinks.
Tip: be sure to wear water shoes; the pebbly ground can be brutal on bare feet.
Rapidos is such a blast and you won’t be disappointed.
1 Cenote Cocolitos
One of the BEST places to spend a day is at Cocalitos, a peaceful, swimmable lagoon with fossilized stromatolites, a cenote, swings, and hammocks. Cocalitos is nothing short of magical and is a popular spot for those Instagram photos.
The water is so crystal clear and shallow that it almost looks invisible! And the bathwater warm temperature is to my liking. There’s also a pier where you can jump into the water if you so desire.
There’s a festive restaurant on site that overlooks the water, playing fun contemporary Latin pop music. They actually serve the best French Fries in Mexico, tasty and crisp (Mexicans suck at making fries – soggy, limp, and tasteless).
There are also three other cenotes in Bacalar. Cenote Esmeralda and Cenote Negro – you can’t swim in them, but you can visit by boat if you want to see them.
At 300 feet deep, Cenote Azul is believed to be the deepest known cenote. It’s great for diving but not for swimming as they ask you not to wear any sunscreen at all, not even biodegradable sunscreen which is a no-go for me.
What to Eat in Bacalar
Food is pretty cheap in Bacalar and offers much the same variety as you’ll find in nearby spots.
Here’s our guide on Yucatan Food to Try.
Before or After Bacalar
I’ve been traveling to Mexico since my early 20s (decades ago) and especially the Yucatan Peninsula. There are so many wonderful places to explore. Below are my guides to several incredible colonial cities and gorgeous beach towns on the Yucatan Peninsula as well as my Yucatan road trip guide.
Note, since Bacalar does not have any beaches if you want a traditional beach day, head to nearby Mahahual. This small beach town is also a Caribbean cruise port known as Costa Maya, so I’d advise not going when the ships are in port as it’s a totally different vibe.
I would recommend that you pass up going to Tulum. I was there recently and cannot even express how disappointed I was.
My last visit, 15 years ago, was just a day trip to the Mayan ruins overlooking the turquoise beach which was pretty spectacular. So I was excited to spend more time in this so-called “bohemian paradise.”
I could not believe how much it had changed…and not for the better.
- What once ranked #5 of my top beaches in the world was now covered in a plethora of sargassum seaweed, piling up on the beach and turning the shimmering turquoise water to dull, opaque gray-blue. Even Playa Paraiso, supposedly the most beautiful beach in Tulum was not beautiful and we did not stay long.
- The hotel zone, while lovely, suffers horribly from over-tourism, jammed with so many cars, scooters, bicycles, and pedestrians, all vying for a place on the narrow, dirt road. What should be a 10-minute drive to get from one end of the strip to the other now takes an hour or more because of traffic.
- The entire beach side of the hotel zone is lined with, well, hotels. They are all stunningly lovely organically-designed boutique masterpieces – that’s not the problem. These private properties take up the entire street with almost no public beach access so people who want to visit the beach have to pay a day rate to use their “beach clubs.”
- Not only is beach access blocked, but the hotels (and some private residences) have built high walls across the ENTIRE hotel zone, so not only can you not use the beach, you can’t even SEE it on the whole hotel zone – that’s just not right! We were staying across the street from the beach, but we could not see it, and to set foot on the beach we had to drive quite a distance away to public Paradise Beach.
- The prices of the restaurants and boutique shops along the hotel zone were outrageously expensive…and empty. We went into El Centro (downtown) to eat 100% of the time.
Instead of Tulum, try one or more of these incredible colonial cities and gorgeous beach towns on the Yucatan Peninsula. Also, check out my Yucatan road trip guide.
Fun Activities on Mexico’s Caribbean Coast
Snorkeling with Whale Sharks in Cancun
Bacalar Travel Tips
Bring money. There are several ATMs on the main square in town, but they rarely work. You’ll also get a better conversion rate if you get pesos from your bank before you leave.
Be eco-conscious. The area is a nature lover’s paradise and an ecologically fragile environment that is home to many species of plants, animals, and aquatic life. Don’t step on the stromatolites. Stromatolites look like flat rocks sitting in the water, but they’re actually alive — some of the world’s oldest living organisms. Even though at Los Rapidos there are big posters telling visitors NOT to stand on the stromatolites, we still saw many idiots doing just that.
Beware the sun. It’s strong so make sure you bring a lot of sunscreen because it’s expensive to buy there. Most water activities require you to wear biodegradable sunscreen, but some even forbid any sunscreen at all so you might want to wear a UV-blocking shirt.
Conclusion
In 2019, The New York Times dubbed Bacalar “the next Tulum” and other publications followed suit. Wow, I sure hope not. Tulum and Cancun are over-touristy, commercial, and lacking an authentic bohemian/Mexican charm. Let’s hope it does not get ruined.
Most photos by Kary Kern
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About the Author
Patti Morrow is a freelance travel writer and founder of the award-winning international blog Luggage and Lipstick and the southern travel blog Gone to Carolinas. TripAdvisor called her one of “20 Baby Boomer Travel Bloggers Having More Fun Than Millennials” and she was named one of the “Top 35 Travel Blogs” in the world.
She is also the star of the upcoming TV series “Destination Takeover” which is scheduled to premiere in the new few months.
Patti is the author of the book “Girls Go Solo: Tips for Women Traveling Alone,” and has over 150 bylines in 40 print and online publications, including The Huffington Post, International Living Magazine, Washington Post Sunday Travel, Travel Girl, Travel Play Live Magazine, and Ladies Home Journal. She has traveled extensively through six continents looking for fabulous destinations, exotic beaches, and adventure activities for her Baby Boomer tribe.
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